THE WINTER SOLSTICE AT MACHU PICCHU
We got to Machu Picchu at around 6:30am – we were the first hikers there and already people were everywhere, which, quite frankly, pissed me off. The gates to MP opened at 6am to the nice-smelling, rested, showered tourists while the hikers were refrained from getting there any earlier. I’m still mad about this set up. They should let the hikers leave whenever they want!
Anika and Jon weren’t there – quick side note. We found out that Anika and Jon both got altitude sickness and had to get to sea level, so instead of hanging out in Lima, they decided to go back to LA. I am super bummed they came so far and never saw MP.
After looking for Jon and Anika, Miguel took us to the Temple of the Sun to wait for the sun to rise over the mountain range. As we were walking around, people were staring at us – I guess you could tell from looking at us we had been hiking for several days. Miguel was rad – he was so stoked about seeing the Winter Solstice that he was just giddy, which was very infectious. Miguel said the solstice wouldn’t happen until 7:20am – everyone else was saying it would happen sooner – but Miguel was right – just before 7:20am the sun peaked over the mountain and reflected through the Temple of the Sun. It was incredible!
Anika and Jon weren’t there – quick side note. We found out that Anika and Jon both got altitude sickness and had to get to sea level, so instead of hanging out in Lima, they decided to go back to LA. I am super bummed they came so far and never saw MP.
After looking for Jon and Anika, Miguel took us to the Temple of the Sun to wait for the sun to rise over the mountain range. As we were walking around, people were staring at us – I guess you could tell from looking at us we had been hiking for several days. Miguel was rad – he was so stoked about seeing the Winter Solstice that he was just giddy, which was very infectious. Miguel said the solstice wouldn’t happen until 7:20am – everyone else was saying it would happen sooner – but Miguel was right – just before 7:20am the sun peaked over the mountain and reflected through the Temple of the Sun. It was incredible!
The Winter Solstice in action. As the sun rose over the mountain, a perfect shadow of the window can be seen over the altar of the Temple of the Sun.
There are two windows in the Temple of the Sun. The one in the center is for the Winter Solstice. On the Summer Solstice, the sun shines through the Sun Gate (where we hiked through) and then through the other window in the Temple of the Sun. Super cool, but that’s the only thing that happens on the Summer Solstice…
The exterior of the Temple of the Sun. The windo at the top is where the Winter Solstice shines through. It was created from a large natural boulder that miraculously disappears into little carved stones.
On the other hand, there are other happenings on the Winter Solstice… A Southern Cross is made (our picture sucks, sorry!) and also a shadow reflects on the eye of the Puma, which is by the Sundial. We missed the puma thing – it happened simultaneously with the Temple of the Sun – and Miguel said the Temple of the Sun is better anyway.
The three windows. The shadow of the Southern Cross can be seen on the left-hand side. We missed the time when it was perfectly aligned, but you could still see the shadow of the cross.
We did see both llamas appear. There’s a compass stone by the Three Windows that is diamond shaped and points N, S, E and W. On the Winter Solstice, a llama’s head appears twice. Once with one ear and again with two ears (profile shot). How rad is that?
Shadow of a llama with two ears on the compass stone.
Miguel was so excited – he has been to Machu Picchu more than 100 times and had never been there on June 21 and was just so happy to finally see it in person. He brings pictures of the solstice holograms on his tours to show people what happens on June 21, but had never actually seen it with his own eyes.
The Temple of the Condor was super cool – I love the massive wingspan and the combination of boulders and carved rocks.
Temple of the Condor. The stone on the ground is its head and the two boulders are its wings.
I really loved and was so impressed by the stonework… the detail is just amazing. It was great seeing so many ruins along the trail because we understood MP so much more – what things meant, what the purpose was, etc. I think what impressed Jared and I the most was the way the Incas used natural stone with cut stone. The seams were flawless and it was such a beautiful way of combining natural elements within a city. Miguel also explained that holy places (temples) used the finest rocks and craftsmanship.
Jared and I with our backs on the Temple of the Sun. On the left is fine stonework, denoting a holy place and on the right is jagged rocks, which mean it's for regular use.
Flawless stone walls.
The Incas used stone that was naturally on the hill (boulders) along with their carved bricks. It was just beautiful.
I also love the lone tree that’s centered in the courtyard. So pretty…
Us at MP with two fellow hikers (Canadian college students) we befriended along the trail.
After running around and seeing all the solstice happenings, Miguel gave us a great tour. I’m so glad we had a guide and especially Miguel, who is just rad as can be. Not only was he better than all the guides on the hike but he was better than the other MP guides! All the guides knew him and you could tell he was the coolest. I can't recommend him enough, from his amazing knowledge of Inca culture and Machu Picchu, to his really great personality and patience with our lack of hiking ability.
Jared and Miguel at the quarry. Miguel was explaining how the Incas cut the massive stones.
There were two main things I wanted to accomplish at MP:
1. Read Neruda’s poem, The Heights of Machu Picchu
2. Have Jared sketch
I accomplished #1 as I waited for the winter solstice to happen. I ideally wanted a quiet place to do this, away from everyone else, but I completely felt peaceful and Neruda’s words hit me so honestly. I had read that poem before several times and understood in a completely different manner as I read it at that place. It was a favorite memory and feeling of the entire trip.
#2 never happened. Jared, who was fighting a nasty cold the entire hike, had put his body through too much. While we were at MP, Jared looked and felt horrible and needed to go to bed (and get drugs) soon. We weren’t leaving until the afternoon on the next day, so we decided to go down to Aguas, look for Jon and Anika (at this point, we didn’t know what happened to them) and we could always come back to MP the next day.
So around 11:30am or so, we left MP and headed down to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo). The funny thing is that maybe 10 percent of the morning crowd was still there – everyone was gone by 9 or 10am. Miguel said that the reason why the hike is so important is that the hikers appreciate MP more than the typical tourist.
“To them, Machu Picchu is just another attraction, like any cathedral or museum. They show up, walk around for an hour, and leave. But to those who hike the Inca Trail, they appreciate it much more. It becomes an experience for them and they won’t forget it.”
1. Read Neruda’s poem, The Heights of Machu Picchu
2. Have Jared sketch
I accomplished #1 as I waited for the winter solstice to happen. I ideally wanted a quiet place to do this, away from everyone else, but I completely felt peaceful and Neruda’s words hit me so honestly. I had read that poem before several times and understood in a completely different manner as I read it at that place. It was a favorite memory and feeling of the entire trip.
#2 never happened. Jared, who was fighting a nasty cold the entire hike, had put his body through too much. While we were at MP, Jared looked and felt horrible and needed to go to bed (and get drugs) soon. We weren’t leaving until the afternoon on the next day, so we decided to go down to Aguas, look for Jon and Anika (at this point, we didn’t know what happened to them) and we could always come back to MP the next day.
So around 11:30am or so, we left MP and headed down to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo). The funny thing is that maybe 10 percent of the morning crowd was still there – everyone was gone by 9 or 10am. Miguel said that the reason why the hike is so important is that the hikers appreciate MP more than the typical tourist.
“To them, Machu Picchu is just another attraction, like any cathedral or museum. They show up, walk around for an hour, and leave. But to those who hike the Inca Trail, they appreciate it much more. It becomes an experience for them and they won’t forget it.”
Amen, mi amigo.
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